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| Volcanic area of La Garrotxa |
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This
region is the best example of volcanic landscape in
the Iberian peninsula and one of the most interesting
in Europe.
It contains about thirty strombolian volcanoes, some
craters and more than twenty of the most unusual basalt
lava flows. This geological attraction is accompanied
by a rich and variated vegetation nurrished by an exceptionally
humid climate, and is set in an exceedingly beautiful
landscape.
The most important volcanoes are: Montsacopa,
Santa Margarida, Croscat, Martinya
and Roca Negra, among others. We shall be travelling
around them on a small train, a replica of the one that
formerly connected Olot with Girona and was withdrawn
from service many years ago. The route, which starts
at the La Fageda d'en Jordà (Jorda's
beech tree grove), takes us through scenery typical
of this area as far as the Croscat, where different
types of volcanic material shown on the slopes.
Lunch
We consider lunch an important part of the trip, as
we would like you to get some idea of the rich and tasteful
regional cuisine. You shall therefore try one of the
most typical dishes of this area (Santa Pau beans) which,
together with the other courses and the dessert, will
introduce you to the products cultivated in this region.
Santa Pau
Those who have been lucky enough to visit this lovely
little village would never forgive us for leaving it
out on this trip. The whole village has been declared
a historical and artistic monument. Standing over it,
is a medieval castle which was abandoned long ago. The
village center, distinctly feudal, consist of winding
cobbled streets and a lovely porticoed main square.
Banyoles
Although the scenery on the outward trip was interesting,
the route to Banyoles is just admirable. In Banyoles,
we shall visit the lake, which is of karstic and tectonic
origin. It is 2.130 meters long and 15 meters deep.
It has, of course, a legend around its deep dark water
and the dragon, together with other nice stories that
locals will be delighted to tell. You can rent a row
boat or just board into one the boats which cross the
lake.
The surroundings were declared scenic landscape in
1951.
Besalú
A medieval center, Besalú was declared a
historical and artistic monument in 1966. From the ancient
monastery of Sant Pere, only remains the XII
Century church, which its construction began initially
in 977 . The town boasts an angular and unique romanesque
bridge. The Jewish quarter or El Call, which
includes the Mikwa bath house for liturgical
ablutions, is the third most important in Europe. The
main square is porticoed.
Counting towards Olot we pass by Castellfollit de la
Roca. This village is situated on a rocky basalt promontory,
60 meters high and almost one kilometer in length. The
cliff sweeps down spectacularly to two rivers. The view
of the village is very picturesque and quite stunning.
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| Modernism |
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Casa Milà (La Pedrera)
A building by Antoni Gaudí, the most famous
modernist architect of the time. Modernism arouse in
Europe at the begining of the century and its characterized
by its variety of forms and the richness of his decorative
elements.
La Pedrera was built between 1906 and 1912,
at the culmination of Gaudi's career. The conception
of this layput and the inner courtyards, the two entrances,
the parking area for carruages in the basement, the
majestic façade, the sinuous mansard and the
original terraces full with ceramic, adorned chimney
and ventilation stacks, give to La Pedrera a
powerful personality which some argue is close to european
expresionissm and others define as the forerunner to
surrealism. The whole façade is made from large
blocks of stone that form ondulating reliefs which include
doors, windows, balconies and bay windows. The forged
iron work is one of the decorative elements that has
been used imaginatively in the grilles, railings and
doors.
One of the building's most original features, is the
mansard which supports the terraces and is comprised
of a series of parabolic arches. The openings correspond
to inner courtyards, the ceilings and mouldings boast
a great variety of relieves along the same decorative
lines as the façade. The woodwork of the window
frames and forniture is evidence of Gaudi's rapport
with Art Nouveau.
This building was declared a national monument by the
spanish government by 1969 and a world heritage building
by UNESCO in 1984.
Passeig the Gràcia
A short stroll will give as the chance to see a few
well known buildings wich are worthy of special attention
because of their beauty and because their significant
exponents of Modernism.
La
Sagrada Familia
An expiatory chuch consecrated to the Holy Family. This
is Gaudi's most famous monument and the symbol
by which Barcelona is best known worldwide. Begun in
conventional neo-gothic style in 1882 by Villas i
Lozano, the work was taken over by Gaudí
in 1883. The temple has twelve spires representing
the apostles, four of the evangelist, one for the Madonna
and the tallest one, reaching 170m. height, representing
Jesus Christ. Every window, pillar, etc. is related
in some way to a saint, institution or mystery of the
Catholic faith.
We can see how the structure is a single, integrated
whole from the foundations right up to the top (parabolic
arches without the need for buttresses). The only part
built directly by Gaudí was the apse and
the Nativity façade, portaying Jesus's early
years, and its steeple spires, of which Gaudí
saw only one completed before his death in 1926.
The work was interrupted in 1936 when the crypt and
Gaudi's workshop caught fire. The works restarted
in 1952, thought under some controversy, and was based
on the few original plans and models that survived to
the fire. The façade and the four spires of the
Passion were completed between 1954 and 1976, and in
1987 the catalan sculptor Josep María Subirach
joined the project and did the sculptures for the Passion
entrance.
Casa Lleó Morera
This house is the result of the renovation carried out
between 1902 and 1906 on a building comprising a semi-basement,
ground floor and three upper storeys, that dated back
to 1864. The building's interior and exterior are exactly
in accordance, the façade shows clearly the precise
layout of the inside. The artistic merit of Lleó
Morera house corresponds to two great talents: the
architect Lluis Domènech i Montaner and
the furnisher and decorator Gaspar Homar i Mezquida.
Lunch
In view of the widely-varying cuisine to tempt one's
taste in Barcelona, we have chosen a menu based on different
specialities and with the summer season in mind. Tapas
is last trend in Barcelona, Passeig de Gràcia,
as well as the new Maremàgnum Mall or
the Olympic Harbour and Rambles are the recommended
areas for it.
Parc
Güell
Commisioned by Eugeni Güell, Gaudí
designed this park and supervised the work on it between
1900 and 1914. The park was to have the infraestructure
and equipment of an English-style residential garden-city,
and the initial plan was to build some sixty detached
houses there. Gaudí did the infraestructure:
paths, accesses and a large square. At the top, their
sinuous geometrical shapes are adorned with trencadís
(broken bits of ceramic). It's this form of decoration
that gives the whole park such an unusual yet attractive
air.
The pavilions are supported by a dome and a spiral
tower bearing Gaudi's customary double cross.
A ramp, broken up by an extraordinary dragon, which
serves to channel water to the cistern, leads to a large
hall resting on 86 doric pillars. This was to have a
been the estate's market-place. Above this hall is a
large outdoor square surrounded by an outstanding wallbench
which snakes around it forming small recesses, all of
which are decorated with a spectacular assortment of
trencadis ceramic in bright, attractive colors
that give the whole place a beauty of its own. Both
in this bench and in the rest of the ceramic work, Josep
María Jujol, one of Gaudí's collaborators,
played a very important role.
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| The Arts |
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Dalí
Theatre Museum
Built on the site of the old XIX Century Municipal Theatre.
It was opened to public on 28th September 1974 and later
extended by annexing the next-door building, the Torre
Gorgot. Renamed Torre Galatea by Dalí
honoring his wife Gala, this houses exhibition
room and the offices of the Gala-Dalí Foundation.
The old stalls area is now a garden containing an imposing
sculptural ensemble formed, at the base, by the Taxi
Plujós (Rainy Taxi) and topped by the little
boat that was once Gala's. The ground floor also
inclides the Sala de les Peixateres, with such
well-known paintings as the Soft Self-Portrait with
Slice of Grilled Bacon and the Portrait of Picasso;
a room containing drawings and the gallery surrounding
the patio, leading to oil paintings by Evarist Vallés.
On the stage section, beneath the geodesic dome designed
by Emilio Pérez Pireño, the grand
back drop for the ballet Labyrinth and the painting
Gala Looking Out Over The Mediterranean take
pride of place. To the left is the so called Treasure
Room which holds such leading well-known works as The
Bread Basked, Galarina, Atomic Leda
and The Spectre of Sex Appeal.
On the first floor we find the Palau de Vent room,
where Dalí held his first exhibition at
the age of fourteen. The ceiling shows a large fresco
painting depicting two human figures opening drawers
and pouring gold coins down over the Empordanese field.
Next door is a small room containing the paintig Poetry
of America or The Cosmic Athletes. To the left,
one has access to the Jewel Room and the garden of Torre
Galatea. To the right of the stage is the Mae
West room, a living-room layout which, by optical
illusion, forms the face of a mystical actress. On the
second floor there is a gallery adorned with paintworks
by Antoni Pixot and, on the third floor, the
room containing the painter's own private collection,
with works by Meissonier, Fortuny, Modest
Urgell, Gerard Dou, El Greco,
Marcel Duchamp i Bouguereau along
with some of his own such as Automatic Beggining
of a Portrait of Gala.
Perelada
Perelada is a town which dates back to medieval times,
built over the ruins of a fortified Iberian settlement.
It owes its urban layout to the restructuring that took
place after the Almogàver mercenaries
set fire to the town in 1285. Perelada's medieval past
allows us nowadays to contemplate a place whose splendid
architectural heritage has been preserved with every
respect for tradition. Part of the Castle has been turned
into a luxury gambling Casino. Nearby stand the old
Carme convent, an elegant Gothic XIV Century
church and cloisters, the Museum of the Castell de
Perelada and a very important and valuable library.
Lunch
We stop for lunch in Vilajuiga, the town we come to
before making our way up to the Monastery of Sant
Pere de Rodes. Here we'll taste a typical Empordanese
dish called Platillo. This was a traditional
farmhouse fare on the days of the Town Festival when
it was the custom to invite relatives and neighbours
in to partake of the meal.
Sant
Pere de Rodes
The first record known from this monastery dates back
to 878. It is situated half way up Verdera mountain,
at whose summit lie the remains of the old castle of
Sant Salvador de Verdera.
Near the monastery are the ruins of the medieval settlement
of Santa Creu de Rodes, connected with the Monastery
since ancient times and presided over by its church,
an important preromanesque building consecrated to Saint
Helen.
The monastery is laid out in a series of terraces on
the mountain slope and, as was customary in medieval
monastic architecture, is built around the central patio
of the cloister which, as it stands at present, can
be estimated as dating from the latter half of the XII
Century. The reflectory on the southern side and the
rooms to the west are the only parts of the monastery
still standing, while the rest of its structure and
the upper storeys are in a state of almost total ruin.
The steeple, wich is quite a monument in itself, is
from XII Century, but shows evident signs of XI Century
Lombard influence. Next to it, stands a defense tower
which completes the façade and provides evidence
of a long process of construction which probably began
on the X Century.
The church is the monastery's main building and is
located north of the cloister, on the lowest level.
It has three naves and a transept, on to which open
two apsidioles flanking the grand central apse that
has an ambulatory and spans the full breath of the tree
naves, in a way that the side naves could almost be
prolongations of the ambulatory. Along with its structure,
the extraordinary singularity of the church at Sant
Pere de Rodes also lies in the technique used with
the pillars that support the arches and vaults. The
method, unique in Catalan architecture, consists of
a double row of columns which support the toral arches
of the nave that are closest to the apse, and a single
row supporting the wall ribs, all the piers starting
from a high podium. This type of structure is most exceptional
in our medieval architecture, because of the perfection
in its design and construction.
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| Nature and Culture |
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The Aiguamolls marshlands formerly occupied
a far larger area than they do nowadays. The extensive
marshy area gradually became smaller and smaller as
a result of agricultural expension. These marshlands
rank second in importance in Catalonia, after those
of the Ebre River. The interest of marshes lies
in the fact that they are biologically productive places
and, therefore, attract a large number of animal and
vegetable species which must, of necessity, be adapted
to the environment. The progressive disappearance of
wetland areas all over the world means that those remaining
are ever more essential in terms of the conservation
of many species. The most visible and frequent visitors
are the birds, although other interesting and varied
species of vertebrates and invertebrates are also to
be found here.
The fish most common to the area are carp, mullet,
plaice mirallets eels, etc. Also invaluable is the fartet
(Alphanius iberus) a small fish native to the
Iberian Peninsula and for whom the Empordà
mashlands or Aiguamolls are its northernmost
habitat. Amphibians such as frogs are to be found everywhere,
especially in freshwater areas. The toad (Discoglossus
Pictus) is particularly evident and so, in some
places are newts (Triturus Marmoratus and Triturus
Helveticus), although these are very sensitive to
salinity.
Of the reptiles to be found we have river turtle in
some fresh water lakes, and sand lizards and the so
called dull in the soastal sand dunes. The sankes
and ladybirds take cover in the riverbank woodland and
shores. This is also the habitat of water rats, otters,
moles, shrew, mice, rabbits, bats, weasels, polecats,
badgers, foxes, etc.
Birds are to be seen all over the park. Of the 320
species which have been observed here, 93 nest in the
area. The Empordanese marshlands are also vitally important
to birds from other countries, as they provide a refuge
or stop over for migratory species. The vegetation has
certain special characteristics which make it very different
from the surrounding areas. This is particularly so
in the case of the coastal bay communities where the
combination of the water and the salinity play a decisive
role, the main types being saline soils, marshy sands
and waterlogged, laky ground.
Empúries
Empúries is an encient monument site dating back
2500 years and spread over 30 hectares. The site conserves
the remains of one of the most important Greek and Roman
cities in the western Mediterranean. Of the Greek city,
which has been almost entirely excavated, we can see
such structures as the city walls, gateways, sacred
temples and precincts, streets with houses and workshops
set around a central square or Agora, and the
market place or Stoa.
The sacred area was also used for taking care of the
sick and was the place of workship of Aesculapios,
the God of medicine and of seafarers. His majestic statue
was found at the site.
Of the roman city, now yet fully excavated, we can
see the imposing city walls and the gateway which stirs
our imagination into conjuring up visions of the streets,
shops, temples, gardens, amphitheatre, stately mansions
with magnificient mosaic floors and, most important
of all, the forum. Here, we'll make use of the
audiovisual facilities, as the 20 minute film gives
a basic, yet fairly comprehemsive idea of the history
of Empúries.
Lunch
For lunch, on the way to the beach, we have chosen a
seafaring meal which has lately bacome very popular
on the coast. It is the fideuà, an apparently
simple dish made of fish and noodles (something like
a noodle paella), although great care is required
in the cooking in order to bring out its extraordinary
flavour.
Illes Medes
Scarcely a mile from from the coast there is a small
archipielago of seven islets of extraordinary biological
value and where the Illes Medes Nature Reserve
has been set up. The seabed has a wealth of different
species of flora and fauna, with corals, seaweeds and
seagrasses guarding the entrances to underwater caves.
We shall be visiting the area in a glass-bottomed boat
which will enable us to see and enjoy all this extraordinary
marine landscape.
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